Quick trip to Kolymia

Yuraslav woke me at 6 a.m. to start our journey to the Carpathians. Michael, Irene and Natalya were going back to Zhuravno so I gave them big, grateful hugs-I will miss all of them! And Catherine, oh sweet, dear Catherine! I hope to see her one more time on this earth.

As we backed out of the driveway, Yaraslav pointed out a memorial in the field next door dedicated to the abolishment of serfdom- a condition my ancestors endured off and on for hundreds of years. My people were owned by Polish lords and had to give them labor and goods in return for their protection.

Everything is always complicated in Ukraine. First we had to go a distance to pick up Dimitros- we are visiting his sisters in Kolymia; next we had to pick up translator Maria, who had traveled from Lviv by bus to Stryj. Finally we were on our way!

Traveling with my cousin, an ex-taxi driver, is a hair-raising experience. He drives like a madman, speeding down the road with two fingers attached to the steering wheel, talking over his shoulder to Dimitros in the back seat, while wildly gesticulating with his free hand, all the while lurching from one side of the road to the other to avoid the deep potholes he somehow intuits are there, since his eyes are rarely looking ahead. Suddenly a truck is heading straight towards us-both the driver and Yaraslav are startled to see a large cow in the road. Each takes a quick second to apprise the situation and then neatly swerves around the cow and each other. Whew!

On the way, Yuraslav again plays tour guide and we stop at 2 lovely monasteries. It's good to see that Uraine is restoring these gems, one from the 1100's and the other from the 15th century.

At one point, my cousin suddenly pulls off the road into a forest. As we get out of the car, Maria mentions that we will have a nap. I thought this was extremely odd but, as I have been trying to be a good sport on this trip and live like the natives, I dutifully follow them into the woods, searching the area for a likely napping spot. She means, of course, to say that we will have a snack, not a nap. Out came the picnic basket and Yuraslav's huge and impressive version of a swiss army knife which he uses to expertly slice sausages, tomatoes and cucumbers. This was one of 3 stops for a little bit to tide us over until we get to Vira's house and the inevitable many course supper.

It is amazing how these Ukrainian women manage to create the feasts they do in their very spartan kitchens. Usually they have only a stove, sink and refrigerator and almost no counter space. They put the chopping block on a chair and either bend over or kneel on the floor to prepare the dish. Each course is comprised of many small dishes. How their backs must ache by the end of the day!

What I feared would happen, happened. It was only on the morning of our visit that the guys called Kolymia to let our hostesses know we were coming although I had asked Maria about two months ago if we could make this visit. Danka, unfortunately, was moving that very day into a new apartment and she and her husband were planning to stay at Vira's small house until theirs was organized. No room for the contingent of 4 so we wound up at a nice hotel. This was my preference anyway because sleeping at a Ukrainian house means using one of the many sofa beds tucked here and there-none of which look particularly comfortable. And bathrooms are a real issue. Plumbing is an area in which Ukraine has miles to go before being close to adequate. My hotel room, in contrast, has a flushable toilet, hot shower and a comfortable bed,

Because of the bad weather and word from Lviv that Maria's small son was having difficulties with her absense, we decided to cut the trip short. After another feast at Vira's we left for Lviv. The 2nd thing I feared would happen, happened. I had been after Yuraslav for days to call Slav and let him know I would rent his apartment again. By the time we phoned, the flat had been taken since Lviv was totally booked because of Independence Day celebrations. Slav kindly called around Lviv and found a room at the Hotel Dnister which is twice as expensive as Slav's place and not so well situated but no matter. I've spent almost nothing so far on this trip- thanks to my relatives generosity.

I was happy to be in Kolymia for Ukrainian Independence Day. The toasts at our meal were passionate wishes for Ukrainian prosperity and success. These people love their country so much.

I liked everyone I met -such nice, friendly people. This is a very family orientated country. Three people, so far, have approached me about finding more about their own relatives who emigrated years ago.